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Flat Felled Seams

A flat felled seam is sewn twice to create a very secure seam that won't rip out. It is used in garments such as jeans and children's wear that will take a lot of hard wearing.

To use a flat-felled seam, you must have cut the garment with a 1.5 cm (5/8 inch) seam allowance.

This is a quick and simple industrial method that requires no trimming.

You can click on the photos to see a larger image.

How to Sew Flat Felled Seams

1. Sew the first seam

If you are using coloured topstitching thread on your garment (e.g. jeans thread) use it in the bobbin for this seam.

  • Lay the fabric pieces, WRONG SIDES TOGETHER,with the edge of upper piece about 6 mm (1/4 inch) back from the bottom piece
set back edge

  • fold the bottom edge over the set-back edge
Fold edge over
  • stitch 6 mm (1/4 inch) from the fold
  • (don't worry if your stitching occasionally misses catching the folded-over fabric; just be sure to keep the stitching line straight and an even 6 mm from the fold)
Stitch 1st seam

2. Press the seam

  • as usual, first press the seam as you sewed it; then
  • open the garment and press the seam to the side, with the raw edge enclosed
  • (the bobbin thread of the first seam shows on the right side)
press first seam

3. Edgestitch the second seam

  • if using, thread the needle with your coloured top-stitching thread.
  • with the garment open, edgestitch the fold on the RIGHT SIDE.
edgestitch the fold

The right side of the finished seam
right side finished

The wrong side of the finished seam
finished wrong side

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